Holger Koch Spätburgunder Kaiserstuhl 2019

This Spätburgunder comes from 35-year-old vines grown on loess soils at around 240 meters elevation in Bickensohl, one of the higher-lying villages in the Kaiserstuhl. The grapes sit at the entry level of Holger Koch's Burgundy-inspired hierarchy, where loess-dominant soils deliver fruit-forward, approachable wines with clear structure. The blend draws on both local Baden clones and selection massale cuttings from Burgundy and Alsace, in roughly a 55/45 split.

In the cellar, fermentation proceeds with indigenous yeast in 3,000-liter wooden casks with 14 days of maceration. The wine then ages nine months in those same large-format casks with no fining or filtration. The result is dry, precise, and light on its feet — sour cherry and red currant on the nose, a thread of clove and white tobacco spice, and clean acidity that keeps it lively through the finish.

Holger Koch has farmed organically since the estate was established, dropping formal certification after 2014 due to administrative burden but maintaining the same practices: no herbicides or synthetic fertilizers, cover crop seeding, and hand harvesting. The estate covers roughly 7.5 hectares of terraced vineyards around Bickensohl, all worked with low intervention in the cellar.

At 13% ABV, this is a red built for the table rather than the cellar. Serve it slightly cool — around 57 to 60°F — to keep the red fruit crisp and the tannins in check.