Der Rebenhof Burgunder SA NV

Burgunder SA is a non-vintage white wine from Hartmut Aubell of Der Rebenhof in Süd-Steiermark, Austria. It is a solera-style blend of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Chardonnay (each at roughly 33%), drawing from multiple harvests spanning 2010 through 2014 and beyond. The grapes come from 20-40 year old vines across two named vineyards: Witscheiner Herrenberg, with its sandy marl and gravel soils, and Ratscher Nussberg, a site dominated by Opok, the local name for the region's compressed, calcareous grey marl formed from ancient seabed deposits.

In the cellar, Aubell ferments spontaneously with native yeasts, using whole clusters and short skin contact. The wine ages in a combination of stainless steel and neutral wooden barrels before being bottled without fining or filtration, and without added sulfur. Aubell holds winemaking details close, but the approach is unambiguous: nothing added, nothing taken away.

The wine opens with aromas of caramelized orange, fresh grated ginger, and ripe melon, with a herbaceous, floral finish. On the palate it is juicy and mouth-watering, with bright acidity that keeps the honey and tropical fruit notes from feeling heavy. The multi-vintage blend adds structural depth that a single-year bottling from these grapes would not achieve.

Der Rebenhof holds Demeter biodynamic certification, awarded in 2016. Aubell has farmed biodynamically since 2013, with no additions in the vineyard or cellar.