Cesar Marquez Perez El Rapolao Mencia 2023

96+ points Wine Advocate
Cesar's 2023 El Rapolao was sourced from a centenary plot in the coldest part of the village, where the soils are rich in iron and organic matter. It fermented with 30% full clusters in small 1,000-liter vats, with a short maceration of 17 days and an elevage in used 500-liter oak barrels. It comes in at 12.75% alcohol, a pH of 3.58 and 5.38 grams of acidity, with lower alcohol and more freshness and acidity than the previous vintage. This is a place with more rusticity, always a little earthier, with slightly dusty tannins. 1,911 bottles were filled in May 2025.

Cesar Marquez Perez, Raul Perez's nephew, is one of the most precise winemakers in Bierzo with the family Castro Ventosa range and his personal project, which he started in 2015. In the 2023 vintage, he is releasing a new wine from the Villegas area, a lieu-dit in Valtuille on sandy soils. The single-vineyard wines are aging in increasingly larger oak containers, combining 1,200-liter vats with 500- and 600-liter barrels. He owns 7.2 hectares and works a further seven with local growers across Bierzo, from altitudes ranging between 450 to 850 meters above sea level. His production is slowly growing, and he now crafts 60,000 bottles per year.

As he told me while tasting the wines from the family winery, Castro Ventosa, which he also vinifies, "2023 was a cooler vintage with rain at the beginning of the harvest. The wines have a floral, serious and elegant profile with a contained alcohol content of 12.5% to 13%." These are some of the finest and more elegant wines he has produced so far.